The reliability of a Coleman generator is undisputed for providing backup power, but manual pull-starting can be a strenuous and inconvenient task, especially in emergencies or colder weather. Imagine the ease of simply turning a key to bring your generator to life, eliminating the struggle and multiple pulls. This guide will walk you through the comprehensive process of upgrading your Coleman generator with an electric starter. We will delve into assessing your generator’s compatibility, gathering the necessary parts, meticulously installing the components, and finally, testing your new, convenient electric start system. Prepare to transform your generator experience, making power generation more accessible and less of a chore with this practical upgrade.
Assessing compatibility and gathering components
Before embarking on the electric starter conversion, the crucial first step is to determine if your specific Coleman generator model is even a candidate for this upgrade. Not all generators are designed to accept an electric starter without significant modification, which might be beyond the scope of a DIY project. The primary indicator of compatibility lies within the engine’s design. You need to look for specific mounting points on the engine block for the starter motor and, most importantly, the presence of a flywheel with a ring gear, or the capability to install one.
Many Coleman generators use common small engines, often from manufacturers like Loncin or similar designs. You will need to remove the existing pull-start assembly and potentially the fan shroud to inspect the engine. Look for threaded holes around the flywheel area where a starter motor could bolt on. The most critical component is the ring gear. This gear, typically a metal band with teeth, is pressed onto the flywheel and engages with the starter motor’s pinion gear. If your flywheel lacks a ring gear, you’ll need to source one that matches your flywheel’s diameter and either press it on yourself or have a machine shop do it. This step often requires specialized tools and expertise, as improper installation can lead to catastrophic engine damage.
Once compatibility is confirmed, assembling the correct components is next. Sourcing a complete kit designed for a compatible engine is often the easiest route, but individual parts can also be acquired. Here is a list of essential components:
- Starter motor: Specific to your engine’s make and model.
- Flywheel ring gear: If not already present on your flywheel.
- Starter solenoid: An electromagnetic switch that controls power to the starter.
- Key switch: To activate the solenoid and ultimately the starter.
- Battery: A 12-volt battery (often a small lawnmower or motorcycle battery) capable of providing sufficient cranking amps.
- Battery cables: Heavy-gauge cables (e.g., 6 AWG or 8 AWG) for connecting the battery, solenoid, and starter.
- Mounting hardware: Bolts, washers, and nuts for securing the starter and solenoid.
- Battery box/tray: To safely house and secure the battery on the generator frame.
Understanding these parts and their purpose is fundamental to a successful installation. Taking the time to properly assess compatibility and gather all necessary components will prevent frustrations down the line.
Preparing the generator for installation
With all your components in hand and compatibility verified, the next phase involves preparing your generator for the physical installation of the electric starter system. Safety is paramount at every step. Begin by ensuring the generator is completely off and cool. Disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent any accidental engine starting. It’s also wise to turn off the fuel valve and, if possible, drain a small amount of fuel from the carburetor bowl, especially if you’ll be tilting the generator.
The initial physical modification involves removing the existing pull-start mechanism. This usually means unbolting the recoil starter housing from the engine. Once the pull-start is removed, you will gain access to the flywheel and the fan shroud. The fan shroud, which directs cooling air over the engine, may also need to be removed or modified to accommodate the new starter motor.
The most critical and potentially challenging part of the preparation is installing the flywheel ring gear, if your generator’s flywheel doesn’t already have one. This process typically involves removing the flywheel from the crankshaft. This often requires a specialized flywheel puller tool. Once the flywheel is off, the ring gear must be heated (using a torch or oven) to expand it, allowing it to be carefully dropped onto the flywheel and seated properly as it cools and shrinks. This process requires precision and can be dangerous if not performed correctly. Alternatively, a hydraulic press can be used to press the cold ring gear onto the flywheel. If you are not comfortable performing this, it is highly recommended to seek professional assistance from a small engine repair shop. Once the ring gear is securely in place, the flywheel can be reinstalled onto the crankshaft, ensuring the keyway is correctly aligned and the flywheel nut is tightened to the manufacturer’s specified torque.
Below is a table outlining typical torque specifications for flywheel nuts and starter mounting bolts, though these can vary by engine model:
| Component | Torque (ft-lbs) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Flywheel nut | 40-60 | Refer to engine manual for exact spec |
| Starter motor mounting bolts | 15-25 | Ensure secure but do not overtighten |
| Battery cable terminals | 8-12 | Tighten firmly for good contact |
With the flywheel and its new ring gear securely back in place, and the engine housing prepared, your generator is now ready for the actual starter motor and electrical component installation.
Installing the starter motor and electrical components
With the generator prepped, the next phase is the physical installation of the starter motor and the critical electrical wiring. Begin by positioning the starter motor. It will typically mount to the engine block using two or three bolts, aligning its pinion gear with the teeth of the newly installed flywheel ring gear. Ensure the starter seats flush against the engine block and that the pinion gear can freely engage and disengage the ring gear. Once properly aligned, secure the starter motor with its mounting bolts, tightening them to the appropriate torque specifications as noted previously.
Next comes the electrical wiring, which is fundamental to the system’s operation. This involves connecting the battery, the starter solenoid, the key switch, and the starter motor itself. Here’s a simplified wiring sequence:
- Battery to Solenoid: Connect the positive terminal of your 12-volt battery to the large input terminal on the starter solenoid using a heavy-gauge battery cable. Secure the battery in a suitable battery box or tray on the generator’s frame.
- Solenoid to Starter: Connect the large output terminal of the solenoid to the main power terminal on the starter motor, again using a heavy-gauge cable.
- Battery Ground: Connect the negative terminal of the battery directly to the generator’s engine block or frame using another heavy-gauge cable. Ensure this connection is to bare metal for a good ground.
- Key Switch to Solenoid: Connect one terminal of your key switch to a fused 12-volt power source (often directly from the battery’s positive terminal, or a dedicated circuit if available on your generator). Connect the “start” or “solenoid” terminal of the key switch to the small activation terminal on the solenoid. This completes the low-current circuit that tells the solenoid to engage.
The solenoid acts as a relay, using a small electrical current from the key switch to activate a much larger current flow from the battery to the starter motor. It is crucial to use appropriately sized cables to handle the high current drawn by the starter motor, preventing overheating and potential fire hazards. All connections should be clean, tight, and corrosion-free. Consider using dielectric grease on terminals to protect against moisture and improve conductivity. Route all wiring safely, away from hot engine components, moving parts, and sharp edges, securing them with zip ties or clamps as needed. Double-check all connections before moving to the final testing phase.
Testing and final considerations
With all components installed and wired, the moment of truth arrives: testing your new electric start system. Before the first crank, perform a thorough visual inspection. Confirm all wires are securely connected, terminals are tight, and there are no exposed wires or potential short circuits. Ensure the battery is fully charged and securely mounted. Reconnect the spark plug wire that was previously disconnected for safety.
Now, perform the initial start-up. Turn the key switch to the “start” position. You should hear a distinct click from the solenoid, followed by the starter motor engaging and spinning the engine. If the engine cranks successfully, release the key once the engine starts, allowing it to run for a few moments. If the engine doesn’t start on the first try, don’t continuously crank for more than 5-10 seconds to avoid overheating the starter motor and draining the battery. Allow a minute or two for the starter to cool before attempting again.
Should you encounter issues, here are some common troubleshooting steps:
- No crank/no click: Check battery voltage, ensure battery terminals are clean and tight, verify all wiring connections (especially the key switch to solenoid circuit). A faulty key switch or solenoid could also be the culprit.
- Click, but no crank: This often indicates a strong solenoid engaging, but insufficient power reaching the starter. Check heavy-gauge battery cables for tightness and corrosion, and ensure the battery has enough cranking amps. A seized engine or faulty starter motor are less common but possible causes.
- Slow crank: Usually a sign of a low battery charge or undersized/corroded battery cables.
Once your electric starter is operational, consider some final maintenance and safety tips. Regularly check battery terminals for corrosion and keep the battery charged, especially during long periods of inactivity. If your generator has a battery charging circuit, ensure it’s functioning correctly. If not, you’ll need to periodically charge the battery with an external charger. Always ensure the generator is on a stable, level surface during operation, and never run it indoors. The convenience of an electric start greatly enhances your generator’s usability, making it a valuable upgrade for any Coleman owner seeking effortless power on demand.
Upgrading your Coleman generator with an electric starter is a transformative modification, moving from the manual effort of a pull-cord to the effortless convenience of a key turn. We began by emphasizing the crucial step of assessing your generator’s compatibility, focusing on the presence of mounting points for the starter and, critically, the flywheel ring gear. Gathering the correct components, from the starter motor itself to the battery and wiring, was highlighted as essential for a seamless conversion. Subsequently, we delved into preparing the generator, which included removing existing components and, if necessary, the precise installation of the flywheel ring gear – a step requiring careful attention and potentially specialized tools.
The installation of the starter motor and the intricate electrical wiring sequence were then meticulously detailed, providing a clear path for connecting the battery, solenoid, and key switch to ensure proper functionality and safety. Finally, we covered the all-important testing phase, offering practical troubleshooting tips for common issues like no crank or slow crank conditions. This upgrade not only boosts convenience but also enhances the practicality of your generator, particularly in situations where quick, reliable starting is paramount. Embracing an electric start means easier operation, prolonged battery life through proper maintenance, and a significantly improved overall user experience with your Coleman generator, ensuring readiness when you need power the most.
Image by: Everett Pachmann